Mera Peak Versus Island Peak
Mera Peak vs Island Peak

From Kanchenjunga mountain in the east to Saipal mountain in the west, involves thousands of mountains in Nepal. Our pride is increasing with the grandeur of owning 8 out of the 14 mountains over 8000m. This article compares the most iconic trekking peaks Mera Peak vs. Island Peak. Both mountains are the first choices for rookie climbers.

These two mountains are among the most prominent trekking peaks in Nepal. But, many climbers find it challenging to choose between these two peaks. 

We’ve prepared a helpful guide for them to help rookie climbers overcome their most demanding tasks. These two mountains are distinguishable in many other aspects.

Resemblances between Mera Peak and Island Peak

Mera Peak lies in the Barun sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalayan series of Nepal, whereas Island Peak lies in the Everest region. Both mountains are almost the same height; Island is 6,189 meters high, whereas Mera is 6,461 meters. Besides, those two peaks are relatively close to each other.

These mountains are trekking peaks, but Island Peak needs technical climbing skills, and Mera Peak does not need them. Despite their commonalities, Island Peak and Mera Peak offer their travelers unique adventures.

Need Previous Altitude experience.

How you perform at a low oxygen level is one of the significant factors on your way to tackling 6000 meters or 20000 feet peaks.

Three main things really caused peak climbing which applies to both. First, a factor is a lack of experience in high and extreme altitudes. Second, lack of acclimatization and not adhering to a well-planned route. Finally, a significant problem is a lack of physical preparation and overstressing of the body at high altitudes.

Have physical and technical training.

Play your part and choose the best acclimatization for the Island Peak or the Mera Peak itinerary. You must gain proper training and technical knowledge to be safe and successful. Thorough training is required to be safe and successful, and we are more than happy to assist.

Best season to go climbing.

Nepal bags 6-seasons in a year, and Spring (March to May) and Fall (September to November) are the ideal seasons for trekking and climbing in Nepal. However, the winter may be an excellent time to climb if you’re adequately equipped for the cold weather.

The vistas of the mountains are crystal clear in the crisp and chilly month of December, and there are fewer hikers around. The Mera and Island Peak Climbing can be extended or shortened to suit your needs.

Himalayan Exploration will arrange the required element for your expedition, including accommodations, guides, meals, and all climbing and camping gear. This comprehensive guide to Mera Peak Climbing will help you prepare for your journey ahead.

Mera Peak vs. Island Peak: How difficult to climb?

Mera Peak does not need special climbing skills, whereas Island Peak requires technical knowledge. Nevertheless, both mountains are among the top choices for newbies.

Mera peak summit
Top of the Mera Peak

Island Peak is obviously more technical than Mera Peak and needs specialized training. Knowing how to use an ice ax and traverse ladders while wearing crampons is crucial—using a Jumar and a safety line to move between fixed anchor points.

It will help if you are comfortable abseiling using a figure-of-eight device and navigating safely between fixed anchor points high on Island Peak. Island Peak is more physically demanding than Mera Peak since it is higher on the mountain.

The trek to Mera base camp is more strenuous than the trek to Imja-Tse base camp since there is more elevation gain on the trail. But, the approach to the top of Island Peak involves steep ice climbs and other difficult portions including the headwall.

In comparison, it is easy to ascend to Mera Peak with fewer challenges, such as crevasses, although it is more exposed to strong winds and can be colder. In terms of altitude, Mera Peak is higher than Island Peak. Mera Peak is more straightforward in terms of technical difficulty than Island Peak.

Mera Peak climbing
Mera Base Camp

Keep in mind, since these mountains are classified as hiking peaks, it may be mistaken that they are easy to climb. Unfortunately, that is not yet true. Climbing both mountains take a lot of effort and dedication.

Other facts concerning Mera and Island Peak

Island Peak is also known as Imja Tse in the native language. It changed in 1951, when the team of mountaineers, called Imja Tse Island, felt uncannily like an island.

Mera Peak has three different summits. They are Mera North (6476 m), Mera South (6065 m), and Mera Central (6461 m). Mera North is the tallest and most challenging; only a few mountaineers dare to climb it. Mera Central is more straightforward and most popular for climbing than other summits.

  • The expedition is led by experienced climbing guides and crews.
  • 360-degree fascinating views of the snow-capped mountain, including the Mount Everest
  • Daring itinerary if your expedition starts the trek through Hingu Valley via Amphu Laptsa, an incredible view add-on. 
  • Scenic flight to and from Lukla
  • Discover the world-famous ‘Sherpas’ culture and way of life.
  • Beautiful landscapes with rare flora and fauna within Sagarmatha National Park and Makalu Barun National Park
  • Discover Seto Pokhari, hidden lakes over 5000 meters

At above 6000 meters, both mountains provide a fantastic Himalayan summit experience. These peaks are an excellent introduction to peak climbing at high altitudes.

Climbing is an exciting and thrilling experience. They provide some of the most breathtaking Himalayan vistas in the Everest region.

Climbing is ultimately a daring and dangerous sport, and each year it claims many fatalities. Therefore, the individual climber is always responsible for their safety. This is one of the guiding principles of Nepal climbing and mountaineering. If you can’t accept this, climbing is likely not for you.

These mountains need technical climbing skills. Contact us to assist you with the best climbing guides and crews for a safe and successful climb of these peaks.

Some Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the Mera Peak?

Mera Peak lies in the Barun sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalayan series of Nepal. This is probably the highest peak in Nepal and can reach with basic glacier abilities. It acknowledged one of the best views from the summit, covering five of the world’s 8000-meter peaks. They are Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga.

How do I get there?

Mera Peak is the highest peak in the watershed between the Hongu and Hinku valleys. Himalayan Exploration has a decade of experience guiding groups to Mera Peak. The ideal route to approach the peak is a trek from Phaplu and then walking northeast, traversing two 3000-meter passes to reach the Hinku Valley. This 9-day trek to the Khare is diverse and fascinating since it provides excellent acclimatization for the climb ahead. Instead, you may start a trip to Lukla and then continue to Khare via Zatra La Pass, a shorter route.

How should I prepare for this mountain?

Before approaching Mera Peak, being in the good physical condition is necessary. The best training for such a trip is spending regular days in the mountains and hills. In addition, you may implement lunges, squats, and step aerobics into your fitness routine to help with all this. Most itineraries include a summit day that lasts around 12 hours and comprises 600 meters of ascent followed by 1500 meters of descent. Prior experience with an ice-ax and crampons, as well as altitude trekking, is helpful but not essential if you’re traveling with a commercial group,

Wrapping up

In conclusion, both Mera & Island Peaks offer incredible experiences, although they differ significantly when considering the difficulty levels required; Mera Peak is more suitable if you are looking for more accessible routes, while Island Peak should only be attempted by experienced climbers with knowledge about mountaineering techniques! Ultimately choosing between them comes down to personal preference & availability of resources/time.

About Author

Kumar Lama
Kumar Lama is a founder of Himalayan Exploration Treks Pvt. Ltd. He is leading a team of travel professional offering tailor made travel services across Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.